Fact sheet on heavy metals in cosmetics

 

How do heavy metals get into cosmetics?

Heavy metals are ubiquitous in the environment. They therefore enter the raw materials used for cosmetic products predominantly from the environment. Products such as powders, decorative cosmetics and toothpastes can be particularly contaminated with heavy metals, as they contain a high proportion of mineral ingredients. 

Furthermore, sunscreens or antiperspirants can also be affected, since used metals such as TiO2 or ZnO can be contaminated with heavy metals.

 

Which legal regulations apply?

Some heavy metals are prohibited under Annex II of Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 (Cosmetics Regulation). These include, among others, the following heavy metals:

• Arsenic
• Antimony 
• Lead 
• Cadmium 
• Mercury
• Nickel
• Chromium VI

According to Art. 17 of the Cosmetics Regulation, cosmetic products may contain only technically unavoidable and safe amounts that cannot be avoided with good manufacturing practice. The German Federal Office of Consumer Protection and Food Safety (BVL) has established national guidance values for 5 elements that can be regarded as technically unavoidable. A general obligation to minimize applies.

 

Heavy metal	Guidance values
	Cosmetic products in general	Toothpaste
Arsenic	0.5 mg/kg*	0.5 mg/kg
Antimony	0.5 mg/kg	0.5 mg/kg
Lead	2.0 mg/kg**	0.5 mg/kg
Cadmium	0.1 mg/kg	0.1 mg/kg
Mercury	0.1 mg/kg	0.1 mg/kg

*For theatrical, fan and carnival make-up: 2.5 mg/kg

**For the product group make-up powder, rouge, eyeshadow, kohl (kajal), including eyelid line and eyeliner, as well as theatrical, fan and carnival make-up: 5 mg/kg

 

Nickel and chromium are heavy metals that can cause allergic reactions. There is no general ban on nickel. The Agency for Health and Food Safety (AGES) recommends 5 mg/kg as a maximum content.

Chromium(VI) is classified as a so-called CMR substance. CMR substances are substances classified as carcinogenic, mutagenic or toxic for reproduction. The substances chromium dioxide green and chromium hydroxide green, which belong to the chromium(III) compounds, are permitted in cosmetics.

 

Analysis:

Heavy metals are analytically detected using ICP-MS (Inductively Coupled Plasma - Mass Spectrometry). This is the most commonly used method in trace element analysis.

 

 

Sources:

• AGES (2018) Nickel and chromium in decorative cosmetics – Monitoring, final report of the special action A-016-17; available at: www.ages.at
• BVL (2016) Technically avoidable levels of heavy metals in cosmetic products; available at www.bvl.bund.de
• BfR (2006) Cosmetic products: BfR recommends regulating heavy metal contents through purity requirements of the starting materials: Document
• Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009 of the European Parliament and of the Council of 30 November on cosmetic products, current version: Regulation